Let me tell first the principles: I came to South America with poor knowledge of Spanish and I was to start en exchange semester in Buenos Aires in a university that is entirely taught in Spanish and it wouldn't be easy for me. Instead of taking an expensive Spanish course I decided to do something else - go traveling around the country, meet people, do little discoveries and learn the language "on the street". So I arrived in Buenos Aires after a memorable farewell week in France to discover that this wouldn't be easy - I was confronted by 35 degrees and an approaching thunderstorm, I was nearly dead by the weight of my backpack and countless hours of traveling, in a World that was new to me, in a language that I had only been studying for a while and practiced even fewer. Now this all this seems like a distant memory.
I left half of my belongings in Buenos Aires and decided to start discovering the continent from the southest point - Ushuaia. The plan was basically this: Go from Ushuaia to Santiago, the budget is 800 euros, I have 6 weeks, how I will do it... that will be improvised. Basically I counted on my dear friend Couchsurfing.org to solve my problems. And that's how it was: I got a host in Ushuaia who didn't speak any English and my Spanish started to slowly build-up, word by word, being surrounded by the natural beauty of Ushuaia.
This is Ushuaia, the World's southernmost city. |
Mate - this wonderful drink. This is when I tried it first time and I was taught how to properly make and enjoy it. Also in Ushuaia. |
Everyone who's been hitch hiking knows the feeling.. |
Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the next great moments because I broke my camera.. I cannot either explain how it is to sit 4 hours on the side of Ruta 40 (see pic above) hoping for a car to come and pick me up, and then hoping the person is actually not going to kid nap me (or "Finn nap like my friend Jeremie told). It was a wild and free moment, spiced with a healthy sense of fear.
I slept one night in slum- like conditions and caught a salmonella which took me down for almost 4 days. Then I met at the camp site a French couple who took me in their car 3 days across the border of Chile to a place which was not as brutal as Argentinian Patagonia, where nothing grows. Now when I listen to "Rodrigo y Gabriela", whose CD we listened through many times in the car, I can remember the feeling of salvation when I was finally getting away from the dead part of Patagonia.
If you have been almost two weeks in a nature that is constantly trying to kill you with it's winds and constantly changing weather, thanks to our close proximity to the South Pole, a Chilean Patagonia felt like a true paradise. Oh, and it is a paradise. The nights might be so cold you need 3 huge dogs to warm you up, but after all you might even use a T-shirt during the day. Chilean Patagonia became a place that must be visited again. The green-blue colors of the lakes and streams, the snow-capped mountains, the picturesque little villages, hundreds of flowing waterfalls and of course the Aysen people, listed it one of my all-time favorites, no matter if the summer might not be actually any warmer than in Finland, actually a bit colder. Oh, and black sky that has so many stars I had no idea before... This place I miss.
What comes to the picture above.. It was taken 3 minutes before Oscar took me in his car and brought me 3 days back to Argentina. Unfortunately that time I didn't find in Argentina (I was in El Bolsón and Bariloche) what I was looking for and another adventure brought me soon back to Chile. Basically what thrives and shapes my adventure are the people. And the decision was not regretted, I was soon admiring the gorgeous Valley of Cochamo with a group of Chileans, who soon became my good friends.
Most people find Chilean accent very ugly, but in my opinion there's something very cute in it, whether I completely understand what they are trying to tell me or not.
Our Fiesta de la Luna in Chiloe |
After few days I was back in a truck to Puerto Montt, and after admitting that it's the ugliest city of Chile I headed back to Puerto Varas wondering if there's still some Pisco left. No, I continued to Santiago.
In Santiago I was hosted by a Chilean guy who was in exchange in Finland and we shared some crazy "teekkari"- memories along Terremotos. Good times. |
I found my all-time favorite city, Valparaiso, which smells so bad and is partly too dangerous to walk at any time of the day, but oh I felt so connected with the city. |
And then I was back in Buenos Aires ready to find out that my Spanish skills are one of the best of all my class and I'm many times mistaken to be a Spanish girl thanks to my accent. This blog text is missing a lot of great stories that should be told.. but it was a great example how traveling can be a great teacher and a girl can definitely travel solo even in South America.
Now I'm living a boring regular life in Buenos Aires (oh, there's plenty of irony, I'm trying to live a regular life but it's not possible) and waiting for my next big adventure..
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