South America 2014: A bit more than just an adventure

You do it as you like. You hitchhike, you backpack, you take flights, you stick with other backpackers, you do juggling in the traffic lights to earn a penny, you sleep in a tent hidden behind the trees, you live in a hostel, you Couchsurf, you have an itirenary, you go with the wind, you do all of these. Everyone has to find their way of traveling, what pleases them the most and what gives them what they want. Or they can step out of the comfort zone and do something completely else and see what happens. That's how my year was mostly made. 

Starting my hitchhiking trip from Ushuaia, Argentina (January 2014)

So I came one month ago from a 1-year trip in South America. How can it be put in words? There is no way. It's a mixture of feelings, people who I met and people who I had to say good bye, mountains that I saw without knowing if I will ever see them again, a bunch of new skills. It was great to see how my own ability to go with the wind increased once the adventure went on. I had the chance to travel 5 months without a certain direction or plan, which was as valuable as studying 5 months in Buenos Aires, and working 2 months in Quito, two cities that are so different from each other, yet amazing. Every each person I met taught me something new and I will never forget them, even I might never ever see them again. I learnt to speak fluent Spanish - and to even copy accents from several different countries - I learnt to play charango that I didn't even know existed, I learnt to dance some salsa and bachata, to mention some concrete skills. I would like to tell about some of the places that took my heart and some of my most precious memories. An endless "thank you" to every one who were part of my adventure, the countless people who gave me a place to sleep, who gave me a lift and shared a dinner with me. You might never read this but I will somehow pay my debt for the World in kindness and offering my help to every good person who it needs, just like I did once. And perhaps I can share some of the knowledge the road taught me. 

Hitchhiking in Chiloé island in Chile (February 2014)

I started the trip with a 7-week exploration of the southest parts of the World in Patagonia, which can be found in English here. There is no need to repeat. Then I ended up living in the real cosmopolitan metropoly of Latin America.. Buenos Aires. 

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires.. Even the name gives me right now shivers, in a good way. The song "La Guitarra" by "Los Autenticos Decadentes" starts to play in my head. Most importantly, my barrio, neighborhood, Chacarita; the smelly walk to the metro station, the vegetable store with friendly lady, the Casa Fraga: our house full of friends, love, music, dance and coca fernet, Spanish style old houses with tree-lined cobble-stone streets, laughs, endless fugazzeta- pizzas of Imperio, lots and lots of love. After the stereo got fixed Los Fabulosos Cadillacs echoed in the house daily. The bus number 39 always brought me to Palermo if I wanted to party, and the weird taxi driver brought me home asking weird questions. Sailing in the Rio de la Plata having the destination Uruguay, reaching it or not. Wondering how can there be so many cars around the Obelisk. How can there be so many people in the World. Standing at Once every Sunday at 9am, returning in the evening tired and muddy. All in the name of development. The metro is second time this week on a strike but it's nothing outstanding. Dancing salsa and bachata twice a week in Abasto. Feeding the ducks in the Bosques del Palermo or running around the Parque los Andes sidestepping dog poos. Climbing on the roof of our house to take some mate or dance "Because I'm Happy" because I was so happy. Banging tambores at the park and dancing in a down pour around a bonfire that ended up a pile of smoking leaves in 30 minutes. I had never seen a single game of football before but I found myself screaming and crying as a real Argentian should for the fight of championship, without missing a single game. Yes, actually even taking mate or hearing someone talk with that lovely porteño accent makes me want to cry. I never thought I could like so much living in a 12 million people human monster where nature is something you have to search for hours. But I did love it, and I still do. All these memories make me want to return so bad, and so I will do for sure. That was basically the 5 month story in Buenos Aires, with some extraordinarily good people, even some studying. It all started from great confusion but ended up in a big love story -- with a city! Thanks to all the people of ITBA, TECHO, Azúcar Abasto, La Casa Fraga (Yanina, Mafe, Jerome, Carolina, Alex, Tom and Serafin) and everyone else involved with this memorable time of my life. 

Sailing with the university sailing boat when the sun goes down (March 2014)

At our roof in Chacarita after my birthday (June 2014)

My flat mates and some other friends at the roof of our house in Chacarita (July 2014)

Meanwhile I lived in Buenos Aires I did go twice to Uruguay and once to some provinces north of Buenos Aires (Entre Rios and Santa Fe). The coast of Uruguay holds some of the loveliest hippie villages with good vibes, endless dunes, very few people and more stars than the sky holds. Entre Rios and Santa Fe offered some of the most laid-back folks with more mate than it's healthy to consume. Big thank you to all the great Couchsurfers who hosted me those two weeks.

Seeding in Entre Rios.. Chill out (April 2014)

Hiking at the sand dunes between Barra de Valizas and Cabo Polonio in Uruguay (March 2014)

Then after lots of tears and crawling on the ground I found myself in a semi-illegal (yes I love that word) bus towards the north of Argentina - Salta and Jujuy. Driving a scooter along the Ruta 40 in search of the roots of indigenous people of Salta and the best wine of Cafayate made me feel the new Che Guevara, learning to play with the glass balls ("bolito") from a small indigenous kid of Angastaco made me discover the lost childhood, hitchhiking in a water truck through the rough Calchaqui valley listening to Argentinian rock and roll showed me the freedom I loved. Be it the hights of Iruya  in the search of a small indigenous community of San Juan that made me sacrifice lots of sweat and self-courage to find, or the nights of folk music celebrating the Pacha Mama in the Otro Mundo (other world) in Humahuaca, the North of Argentina took my heart now and forever. Especialle el Otro Mundo hostel has a big role in making the rest of my trip what it became, and changing my life possibly even closer to the right direction, thanks to it's humble people: Miguel (the owner) and El Chato. Always remember: "en el otro mundo no hay casualidades ni causalidades". Thanks for the good wibes goes to them, my porteño friends in Iruya and the generous village people of Salta. Everyone who passes by Humahuaca should pass by the hostel "El Otro Mundo", tell the best greetings for Miguel and ask if he remembers me and Ezequiel celebrating the Pacha Mama with his friends and family, surely he does. Oh and it's also the cheapest place to sleep there - it was 50 pesos for night including all utilities and even some wine and fernet. That meant those days about 3,3 euros, meanwhile other places were almost douple price. 

The indigenous little boy in Angastaco who was entertaining me the whole day (July 2014)

The water truck that I used to hitchike from Angastaco to Seclantás (July 2014)

The scooter I used and some mate while waiting for my host to come in Cafayate (July 2014)

Hitchhiking from Cachi to Salta (July 2014)

The little indigenous community of San Juan (below) that we found without any map and just with directions the people in the village of San Isidro told us. (July 2014) There are no roads, the only access is by walking or donkey.

Then came Bolivia. A country where the production of Coca Cola was banned in the fight against capitalism, where foreign companies are not welcome and where Mac Donalds went to bancrupcy and escaped the country of fried chicken. Knowing this it already makes one of the most interesting countries to explore. And it is. You won't find tourism infrastrucure but you find yourself being entertained by the witty Bolivian who don't give much pity to a foreigner who is not accustomed to their way of doing things. They seem to always be having fun, you should too, inspite of the fact that you are freezing in the bus that has window broken or about to die while fighting with the altitude (there live people in 5000 meters. yes). Cold shower? No problem. In Bolivia I realized that South America is actually not the Spanish speaking continent where people look like Spanish. No. In the capital of Bolivia you are surrounded by traditional cholitas who talk aymara and you don't understand a word. But you are captivated by the beauty of authentity of this country that has decided to follow another path of development and seems to be handling it every day better. Bolivia also showed the sad results of what Spanish conquist has done, but which is fighting to return it's cultural heritage. The shine and glamour of Potosi and Sucre are just reminders of the old world which didn't leave much for these days. The fact that I had to pay fine for staying in Bolivia longer than I was allowed explaines how much I enjoyed Bolivia. I never forget the dancing with drunk Bolivians in the celebration of Urkupiña in Quillacollo with the power of home made chicha, the friendliness of a Bolivian family who hosted me for 5 days in Achacachi, the sounds of wild animals when we did wild camping in the jungle 20 km north of the small village of Villa Tunari, or the serenity and peace in a small farm where I stayed in Sorata. Also I'm honored for the knowledge the Argentinian archeologist who lives with his Bolivian wife and a smart little girl shared with me at the Isla del Sol in the village of Challapampa, possibly the best teacher of the reality of Bolivia I ever met. As a memory of this amazing time in Bolivia I have my new travel buddy - charango, an andean 10- string ukulele- like instrument. The biggest thanks for this adventure goes without a doubt to my loyal travel buddy Ezequiel, but also to the Peruan hitchhiker-couchsurfer Jesús and his nephew Juan Diego who explored the Bolivian jungle with us without a fear of sleeping by the river without a tent and shared amazing stories from around the World. Without a doubt one of the greatest Bolivian personalities who I got to know was Milton and his family in Achacachi, who generously took us part of their every-day-life. 

Independence day of Bolivia in a small village at the altiplano. (August 2014)

Feet in natural hot spring at the altitude of 5500 m 

Llamas and typical landscape in South-West Bolivia

The world-famous world's biggest Salt Flat - Salar de Uyuni

Potosi - one of the most remarkable cities of South American history, once the richest city of the World. Not any more. 

Drinking chicha in a traditional Bolivian party during the Urkupiña festivities in Quillacollo, close to Cochabamba (August 2014)

Camping at the amazonas in Bolivia with Ezequiel (Argentina) and Jesús (Perú)

Cooking pizza with the greatest Bolivian personality - Milton

Practicing charango at the balcony of Milton's house (those houses are actually ready, nothing more will be done.. or maybe some day if they get more money to finish them, but it's not really necessary and rarely happens)

In Achacachi, the village of Milton where we had the honour to stay

"Sin más que todo, sobra lo necesario, un lugar, no un espacio, un momento sin horario".. Sorata, Bolivia (August 2014)

More serenity in Challapampa, Bolivia, where no motored vehicles are known. 

The natural continuum of Bolivia is of course Peru, where I got my first moments of real frustration when I broke my hand, got money stolen and changed into fake in the time frame of 3 days. Sadly I had only a month to offer for Peru which is definitely not enough in a country that is the heaven of inner Indiana Jones searching for the lost inca ruins (they still do exist). I did what a good tourist should do - visited the Uros islands and climbed at 4.30 in the morning to the Machu Picchu mountain. Although I was awestruck I was not satisfied. So with my hand in blaster I traveled alone through the previously dangerous mountain and drug production roads of Ayacucho, Huancayo, Tingo María, Tarapoto and so on, finding some of the adventure I had been missing, without seeing any of those tourists for one week who had been surrounding me so densely in Cusco. And that surely is a beautiful region where I found myself being the only person confronted by one of the highest waterfalls in the world, Yumbilla, close to the tiny village of Cuispes. Given the fact that I spent one week angry in Cusco and I found myself traveling in a fast manner, Peru remain unexplored and definitely calls for further investigations. The amount of mototaxis (rickshaw) in Tarapoto still impresses me, as the heat the Amazonas region offers for every hungry adventurer. Biggest thanks goes to Abel who kindly hosted me for two weeks in Cusco and let me know about his social enterprise and projects, I honestly hope I can one day be involved, and not handicapped. Also I will never forget my brave Chilean (and French) hiking buddies with who we conquisted Machu Picchu the cheap and adventurous way and enjoyed it the best possible way, and later partied through the night of Cusco - I even smuggled myself to sleep for free in their hotel when I didn't really have any other place to go and it was 4 am, as my host lived far away and I didn't have money for taxi, actually I wasn't even completely sure how to go there with a taxi. 

Sondor, close to Andahuayalas (September, 2014)

The tropical city of Tingo María

The little visited waterfall of Yumbilla close to the village of Pedro Ruíz

In the village of Cuispes, between the mountain and rainforest in northern Peru

With an Argentinian guy Benjamin playing with little indigenous kids at the Uros islands in Lago Titicaca (September 2014)

And of course.. MACHU PICCHU!

Little accident I had.. picture taken after a couple of days when it wasn't swollen anymore. Cusco, Peru (September 2014) It took about 4 months to recover (and it's still not normal, perhaps will never be)

After long and complicate border crossing I was in Ecuador. It's the funniest border crossing in the world where the police play cards while waiting for the long expected foreigner who had arrived until there (border crossing La Balsa). They were seemingly happy that I, being the first and last of the day, finally arrived, and didn't want to let me go. But so became Ecuador, where I ended up spending almost 3 months. A tremendously green country with people who don't hesitate to invite you in their home. The beauty is so striking that every day when I returned from work to the south and I saw the snowcapped Cotopaxi volcano bathing in sunset I wanted to start screaming "look, look everyone, don't you just see that, isn't it amazing" but no one cares because they've seen it every day of their life. But so is Ecuador, it surprises you in every corner. Ecuadorian is the latino you were expecting; the mestizo who loves to live, dance, drink, food, mountain, beach, people. Terrible generalization, I know, my flat mate never goes out or dances. In 3 months I spent 100 hours in public transport within the limits of Quito (some people spend a lot more). Yet I learnt to love the rustic gobble-stone streets of my shabby yet romantic neighborhood of La Tola and spending the nights drinking cheap and bad beer or dancing good and fast salsa. A loud bachata in the bus at 7 in the morning is a must. I was lucky to get to know the friendliest families of Puyo, Guayaquil and Ambato, dance salsa with a 60 year old Colombian lady until 5 in the morning in Mindo, hitchhike around in the back of a pickup truck playing charango, building an entire house for poor people in Pimampiro, starting the party at 8 am in one of the craziest carnaval parties I have participated; Mama Negra in Latacunga, and later sleeping in whatever place that was heard to have a name called Salsedo (it's not "salsero" as I thought I was going to dance salsa), playing songs I had never heard before with charango at 6 in the morning in Portoviejo in one of the best parties of my whole stay, dancing, dancing, DANCING that describes best those months in Ecuador, like driving around the city in a chiva, jumping, sipping canelazo and screaming "QUÉ CHUPE QUITO". Some day returning home at half past 7 in the morning in a trole from after-after-after- party. Why all that? Well, after I showed all my pictures and videos to my father and uncle, they just admitted: "that's being young". My job sucked, let's admit it. It couldn't have sucked more. To compensate that I had very intensive social life and I never slept more than 5-6 hours, or stayed weekend over in Quito. In two months I made an excellent group of friends who I will maintain as my friends for the rest of my life fore sure. Those who are reading this and possible live in Quito or Guayaquil and feel like this might concerns you, yes it is You and I miss all of you, no need to mention names. Memories never fade - que viva guayaqil - que viva caña manabita - que viva quito - que viva la mama negra! With those words everyone who it concerns know it is them. 

My TECHO volunteer friends in Pimampiro (November 2014)

Couchsurfing national meeting in Portoviejo (November 2014)

With some of my best friends going to the Mama Negra festival (October 2014)

On the road between Portoviejo and Quito

Hitchhiking in a pick-up-truck and playing charango with Denisse, on the way from Mindo to Quito (October 2014)

In the house of Pato and Omar in Puyo (October 2014)

A family who got a new house built by us in Pimampiro (November 2014)

Some kids of a poor family who got a new house by TECHO

A typical house party in Guayaquil with my Ecuadorian friends Kata, Israel and Cristina (December 2014)

The last stop was Colombia that was just a short stop before going home. Anyway it has a special meaning because I was there with one of my dearest friends I got in South America - Mafe - who invited me to get to know his relatives in Ipiales. Colombia might be then the starting point of my next South American trip as I spent there only 3 days, and half of that in a bus on the way to Medellín from where my flight parted to wherever place that is not linked with this story... 

From the toilet of a gas station on the way from Cali to Medellín (December 2014)

Mafe and her cousin in Ipiales, Colombia, just before Christmas 2014

So I am at home. I actually was home only for 1 week until I escaped to Poland to see some friends and to teach English and Spanish to cute Polish kids. So the one-year Latin experience has ended but something else has come instead. All the drifting and adventuring actually gave my life a real direction and more taste that makes me enjoy every day even more than I ever did. Although I am lost, I am kind of going for the goal. Never reaching the goal but on the lead, which feels good. Living with the wonderlust every day of my life. The summarize my feelings I could conclude the ideas of an Uruguayan singer Gustavo Pena with his song "Pensamiento de caracol". Let's all live like snails. 

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To end the game I decided to have a review of my favorite places, the amount of money I spent and some practical information and how much the wine costs in each country (an important information) for someone who would like to do the same. If you don't have money, do not worry, there are multiple ways to prolong your trip without having any previous savings. If you go with the wind you will find out what I mean. You just need to get there and that's where everything starts. 

Argentina

Favorite places: Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego), El Bolsón (Rio Negro), Los Antiguos (Santa Cruz), Buenos Aires, Colón (Entre Rios), Salta Capital, Valles Calchaqui & Iruya (Salta), Humahuaca (Jujuy)

Budget: 500 euros per month is enough if you hitchhike and use actively Couchsurfing or camping, you don't take tours and you don't eat many times outside. Otherwise it might be even over 1000 euros per month especially in Patagonia.

Easiness: Very easy to travel with instaled tourist infrastructure of bus terminals and plenty of services.

Safety: If you don't enter some "villas/favelas", walk like a tourist in shabby neighborhoods like La Boca or walk alone at night in big cities there are no worries.

My budget in Argentina

2 weeks traveling in Argentinian Patagonia (Tierra del Fuego, Santa Cruz, Chubut, Rio Negro): 100 €

1 month of living in Buenos Aires: 500€ (including rent approx. 180€-200€/month, lunch in a restaurant 3€, cooking at home at night 3€, gym + salsa 40€/month, going out twice a week 60€/month, public transport 25€/month )

10 days trip to Entre Rios and Santa Fe: 100€

2 weeks trip to Salta and Jujuy: 150€

Food costs around 8€/day, I didn't use much transport but it's rather expensive, about 5-8€/100km should be an approximate, not that much but the country is 5000 km from one side to another so that sums up a lot. Accommodation in Patagonia even 20€/night while in the north even less than 5€. Eating in a restaurant between 2 and 10 euros for not too fancy places. Good wine in super market 2€/bottle, in a restaurant up to 10 euros a bottle (a good one). In the wine region a liter of wine even in a restaurant might cost only 5€. Camping mostly free or cheap (1-2€ with facilities). Camping almost in every town, municipality offers free camping in non-touristic places. Forthwhile asking for sleeping facilities of municipality, schools or churches, in the north of Argentina at least Angastaco, Seclantas and Iruya had this kind of services when it's too cold for camping that cost only a couple of euros.

Hitchhiking works rather good but distances are huge, there is very few traffic and it's not funny to be stuck in the middle of nowhere. In the north of Argentina it's harder and close to big cities like Buenos Aires, Rosario and in the province of Jujuy might be a bit dangerous for a solo female traveler. Expect to wait between 30 minutes (close to city) and 4 hours (in the middle of the pampa).

Chile

My favorite places: Puerto Natales, basically all of Aysén, especially around the Lago General Carrera, Cochamó, all of Chiloe, especially Castro and Curaco de Velez, Valparaiso

Safety: Even safer than Argentina but you don't either want to enter some shabby neighborhoods like the hills of Valparaiso or some parts of Santiago.

Easinss: Just like Argentina, very easy.

Budget: More expensive than Argentina but 500 euros per month is duable as it's very easy to hitchhike, there are many Couchsurfers and the country is a heaven for campers. Otherwise the price can rise really high.

My budget in Chile:

1 month traveling in Chile (Aysén, Los Lagos, Chiloe, Valparaiso, Santiago): 500€

1 week hike at Torres del Paine: 100€

Food cost around 10 euros per day, eating vegetarian comes cheaper. I didn't use much transport but the price is as in Argentina about 5-8€/100km or a bit more depending what kind of bus you take and what kind of deal you find. Also the distances are huge, I only got to know less than half of the country. I never paid for my accommodation so I don't know, I guess it might be the same or a bit more than in Argentina. Usually people let them camp in their yard if you ask or you just do wild camping in the forest. Eating in a restaurant can cost up to 10 euros. Wine a bit more expensive than in Argentina but for 5 euros you buy a liter of fine wine.

Hitchhiking: Works excellent although there is sometimes lots of competition because it's very popular among foreigners and locals as well. Don't expect to wait more than 15 minutes unless you are somewhere south of Coyhaique where there lives almost nobody.

Uruguay

My favorite places: Punta del Diablo, Barra de Valizas, Cabo Polonio, Sacramento del Colonia

Safety: Perhaps the safest country of South America and only in Montevideo there are some parts that should be avoided and also walking alone at night (well it's basically the only real city of Uruguay).

Easiness: Like Argentina and Chile, traveling as easy as in Europe.

Budget: The most expensive country of South America, 700 euros per month or 150 euros per week should be enough if you do hitchhike, camp and use couchsurfing. If not, it gets easily over 1000 euros per month. Might be less if you don't drink so much wine and mate as I do.

My budget in Uruguay: 

1 week of traveling: (All the coast from Punta del Diablo until Montevideo): 150€

Food  is significantly more expensive than in Argentina, 12 euros per day should be calculated. You can find fast food for as cheap as 5 euros but generally the prices are comparable to central Europe. Accommodation in a hostel 10 - 20 euros per night, but camping possible in most places except in Cabo Polonio where you end up spending over 10€/night! Yerba mate double or triple price in comparison to Argentina but it's also better. Wine and beer twice the price of Argentina.

Hitchhiking: Works more or less but expect to wait for 1 hour.

Bolivia

My favorite places: Potosí, Sucre, Sorata

Safety: The same as Argentina, countryside generally very safe meanwhile in big cities, especially in La Paz and Santa Cruz there are some areas that should be avoided and of course no walking at night.  There is less drug-related crime than in Argentina but I found a bit more annoyance of drunk people than in Argentina/Chile/Uruguay, in general it's not a dangerous country, although the car accident levels are really high because of terrible roads.

Easiness: The most difficult of South American countries to travel but not too difficult. There are often various bus terminals and many busses and cars don't leave from the terminal but directly from the office of the company so you must ask around. You won't find anyone who speaks English so some Spanish is almost a must. It's always about bargaining over the prices, you can drop it half. The country lacks largely on tourist infrastructure and backpacker places are only in few cities and are more expensive than the local hospedajes/hostals. There are very few activities that are possible to do without a guide/tour and maps of hiking routes are almost impossible to find because they want that everyone takes a tour. Going off the beaten track is a bit complicate as non-touristic places don't have any places to sleep. Luckily minivan- transportation goes almost to everywhere and taxis are cheap.

 Budget: The cheapest of the South American countries I visited (Paraguay might be even cheaper). 300 euros for a monthly budget is easy if you don't take many tours, you use only public transport, you sleap only in local hospedajes/hostels and you eat at local fried chicken places or at the market place. Or you cook yourself (same price as eating out).

My budget in Bolivia: 

One month of traveling (South, south-west, central, west and north-west): 350 euros including the Tupiza-Uyuni 3 night tour that costed 150 euros.

Eating outside is very cheap and you only want to cook yourself when you get bored of eating fried chicken and getting sick of stomach once a week. 2-course meal at the market place costs 1,5 euros and in restaurants about 2 euros which includes soup, meal (chicken, meat or fish with potatoes, rice and pasta) and a juice. Accommodation is very cheap, about 2-3 euros per night in local hospedajes/hostals. Backpackers hostels are a bit more expensive, 5-10 euros per night.  There aren't many campings and in most of Bolivia it gets freezing at night, so it's not the best of options. However the tropical part and for example Sorata are excellent for camping. Couchsurfing is possible only in the biggest cities like La Paz, Oruro, Cochabamba and Santa Cruz (and don't forget to visit Milton in Achacachi). Transportation as well very cheap, about 1-2€/100km, taxis in the capital La Paz have a fixed price of 1,5€ where ever you go. Meanwhile wine is more expensive, a Bolivian wine costs about 4 euros/bottle or you can get for 2 euros a liter of very bad Argentinian wine in a bag.

Hitchhiking: Given that it's so cheap to travel and there absolutely doesn't exist hitchhiking culture, you might end up paying more by hitchhiking as you will spend so much time waiting that you eventually buy a meal that costs more than the bus ticket. We hitchhiked once like 15 km because there was no other option and it did work good, a pick up truck let us travel in the back (we were 4).

Peru

My favorite places: Andahuayaylas, Ayacucho, Tingo María, Cuispes

Safety: When in cities you should be well aware where to walk and where not, while Cusco is rather safe, Puno, Lima and other bigger cities have some dangerous parts that might not be obvious, some cities close to Ecuadorin border at the coast like Piura or Tumbes are known especially dangerous. Previously some roads around the Amazonas region like around Tarapoto, Tocache and Chachapoyas where considered dangerous due to drug gangs but these days they are relatively safe even during the night time (I did it at night and the locals told me to not worry about it). More annoying in Peru is robbing of bags at buses so never let even one second the bags out of sight or place them in overhead department in bus. Same applies in cities. Also there is lots of fake money going on that they are trying to give it to you in every opportunity (I'm also a happy owner of a 100 SOL fake bill). Car accidents are daily and severe. With common sense and no walking at night nothing will happen.

Easyness: More organized than Bolivia but still there isn't always a fixed terminal but you have to find the office of the bus company. In many places there is available good tourism information and some people seem to know English. Even if you go off the beaten track, there is always some cheap place to sleep. It's not a difficult country to travel at all.

Budget: As with Bolivia, Peru can be really cheap if you want to, however a bit more expensive. 500 euros per month should be enough given that you visit Machu Picchu and you don't do all the time Camping/Couchsurfing although it is possible. This means bargaining over everything (bus tickets, accommodation, food at the market), avoiding backpacker places but going to local hospedajes/hostals and eating at market place.

My budget in Peru

One month of traveling: 520 euros including Machu Picchu that costs almost 40 euros and with transportation and accommodation and food the 3- day Machu trip ended up costing 70 euros. It also includes my 60 euro hospital bill and 20 euros for new electronics I bought. A night in a local hospedaje/hostal costs around 5 euros (or a bit more or a bit less), food in a local restaurant or market place costs around 1,5-3 euros or a bit less (soup, meal, juice), wine is not very popular and thus a bit more expensive than in Argentina, expect to pay even 3 euros for an Argentinian/Chilean bad wine in a bag. There are quite many Couchsurfers in cities and camping is possible in many smaller places, although wild-camping can be a bit dangerous depending on the region.

Hitchhiking can be difficult and dangerous for solo female travelers. I hitchhiked only twice - once 5 km in a tractor and another time 3 km in a scooter. I do know people who hitchiked through all Peru in just 1 week so it's not impossible, but expect to wait several hours.

Ecuador

My favorite places: Puyo, Pimampiro, Quito, The Mama Negra party in Latacunga (September/November)

Safety: The bigger cities (even wealthier like Loja) have their dangerous parts that should be avoided during all times of the day, better ask from locals because sometimes they are for example nice old neighborhoods or parks. Usually nice locals tell the tourist not to go. At dark time you shouldn't walk anywhere in big cities and the old town Quito is especially dangerous after dark time (that's where I lived for over 2 months and I had only one hot situation). There exist lots of bag snatches and pick-pocketing (just like in Peru). Anyway, if you know it's safe where you are walking, you keep an eye all the time of your stuff and you don't walk around at dark time you are safe. There has been reports of bus and taxi hijacking but I guess it's quite rare. I've returned home alone at night with a taxi I took in the street like 20 times and have always arrived home safe and sound. Countryside is mainly very safe.

Easyness: Thanks to the government of Ecuador, tourism is in boost and it's very simple and easy to travel around Ecuador. Only finding bus schedules and price information in internet is still lacking and it's ready to be as easily traveled as Europe. In Quito it can be a bit confusing that there are like 4 bus terminals and you need to know which is the one fo you.

Budget: Same as Peru, accommodation might be a bit more expensive, 400-500 euros per month is enough if you don't expect to go to Galapagos (then triple the budget). You can cut it to 400 euros if you hitchike, an additionally use Couchsurfing and Camping which are very popular.

My budget in Ecuador

2 months in Quito 400 euros per month: This includes also trips every weekend to somewhere close (no more than 3 hours from Quito). This includes lunch in a restaurant (2€) and cooking myself at night (1-2€), and going out twice a week 50€/month. My rent was 85€/month. Public transport 15€/month. Weekend trips 20€/each = 100€/month. As you can see 350€ is enough but I bought all my souveniers and christmas gifts in Ecuador so that's another 100€.

In Ecuador the transportation costs about 0.85€/1h. I never paid for my accommodation but I believe it costs something around 5-10€/night. Camping is free or costs around 1-2€, it's an excellent option as Ecuador is an awesome camping country. Food is cheap, for 2€ you get a hearty tasty 3-course meal, or you can buy a bunch of vegetables and fruits for 4 people for 3€. A litre of Chilean wine in a box costs like 5 euros. A big bottle of beer normally less than 1€, in restaurants almost the same price or a bit more (if you know where to go).

Hitchhiking it's an excellent hitchhiking country although for a solo female hitchhiker it can be a bit risky close to big cities or border towns of Peru and Colombia. There's plenty of pick-up trucks that give a lift easily and even locals use hitchhiking. Don't expect to wait more than 15 minutes.

Jäähyväiset juhlimisen luvatulle mantereelle

Tällä hetkellä olen Puolassa. Välissä olin toki kotona Vimpelissäkin. Puuttuu cumbia, lukemattomat katukauppiaat, poukkoileva liikenne ja mustapäiset hilpeät latinot. Kaikki on liian rauhallista ja organisoitua. Aloin jo miettimään sitä, miltä Suomi näyttäisi, jos täällä olisi kuin latinalaisessa ameriikassa. Tampereen paikallisbussiin nousisi pari kauppiasta myymään mustaa makkaraa ja seuraavaksi nainen, joka laulaa Kaija Koon kultaisia hittejä kerätäkseen rahaa syöttääkseen viittä nälkäistä lastaan. Hämeenkadulla miehet vislailisivat ja kisuttelisivat minkä kerkeävät kävellessäni. Vimpelissä kulkisi ainakin viisi paikallisbussilinjaa kuljettaen aina Hallapurolle asti, jonka kuskit huutelisivat ikkunasta reittä: "Pokela, Lakaniemi, Pyhälahti". Se mitä Quitossa sanottiin kylmäksi, muistuttaa jo kesää tämän kylmyyden keskellä. Talvi tuli samana päivänä, kun minä saavuin Suomeen, tänään Vimpelissä oli jo -10 astetta. Palataan vielä hetkeksi Etelä-Amerikkaan, vaikka se kipeää tekeekin.

Työharjoittelu ei sujunut ihan mutkitta. Välit toimistotyttöjen ja johdon välillä kiristyi ja minäkin olin vähällä jäädä ilman palkkaa. Viimeiset päivät olivat täynnä tuskaa ja aina aamulla istuessani tunnin bussissa matkalla Carceleniin inhosin sitä hetkeä, jossa astuin firmaan sisään. Viimeisenä päivänä astuessani ovesta ulos olin vielä epävarma, saavuttaako palkkashekki taskuni jossain vaiheessa, mutta tanssin iloisemmin kuin yhdenkään karnevaalikulkueen rummunsoittaja. Minun ei enää koskaan tarvitsisi astua tuohon firmaan. Oikeastaan pelkkä ajatus Carcelenista puistatti. Minulla oli muitakin ilonaiheita: aioin pakata kapsäkkini ja lähteä kohti Guayaquilia, jossa asuvat ehkä minun lempiecuadorilaiseni. Mikään ei voinut estää iloani. Ei edes se, että jotenkin onnistuin missaamaan bussini, joka tulikin eri laiturille kuin oli ilmoitettu, ja jouduin ostamaan uuden lipun.

Viikonloppu Guayaquilissa sujui juuri niin, kuin olisin koko viikon sen kuvitellutkin sujuvan uppoutuessani ajatuksiin töiden lomassa. Vaikka kaupunki on koko maan suurin ja siellä asuu kolmisen miljoonaa ihmistä, tapasin sattumalta Portoviejossa tapaamiani ystäviä kadulla kävellessäni ja sain kutsun illan syntymäpäiväjuhliin, jossa luonnollisesti tanssittiin salsaa ja cumbiaa aamukuuteen asti. Tämä kaupunki yllätti minut positiivisesti niin trooppisenkuumalla lämmöllään, modernilla keskustallaan, sievällä kumpuilevalla vanhalla kaupungillaan, salsallaan että ystävällisillä ihmisillään. En tätä olisi uskonut sanovani, mutta minusta on kovaa kyytiä tulossa kaupunki-ihminen. Haluaisin kuumeisesti asua Guayaquilissa huolimatta siitä, että se on niin suuri, ettei kukkulan päältä näe loppua. Hyräilin päässäni tuttua viisua jossa lauletaan kutakuinkin "Guayaquil City räjähtää, kaikki murheeni lähtevät merenpinnantasolle, tulen vuoristosta, jossa ihmiset sulkeutuvat, vuori, kylmä, raekuurot, sade ja sumu." Täältä puuttui kaikki laulussa mainitut elementit ja ikävä pomoni oli muisto vain. Guayaquilissa et tule ikinä mihinkään vuodenaikaan tarvitsemaan pitkähiaista, jota ilman et pärjää päivääkään edes sisällä Quitossa.

Reissu sai jatkoa Manglaraltossa, pienessä kylässä kaikkien huulilla olevan surffi- ja biletysmekan eli Montañitan vieressä. Täällä sohvasurffaaja Jorge tarjosi minulle petipaikan, eikä vain petipaikan, vaan lisäksi kokkasimme mainioita kasvisruokia ja Jorge opetti salsan ja surffauksen saloja. Hän oli sentään syntynyt Montañitassa, jolloin lainelauta on tälle yksi luonnollisimpia kulkuneuvoja. Olin todella yllättynyt, ettei se lainalautailu oikeastaan niin hankalaa ole, vaan jo toisella yrittämällä olin yllätyksekseni laudan päällä ja kiisin aallonharjalla rantaa kohti. Mahtava tunne. Tätä lisää joskus. Manglaraltossa ei ole juurikaan turistin turistia, jolloin siellä voi yksinkertaisesti keskittyä riippumatossa loikoilemiseen kuunnellen meren pauhaamista. Sopi minulle, etenkin sen jälkeen kun kolmen tunnin surffisession jälkeen hartiat ja selkä olivat totaalisen jumissa.

Erikoisen mieleenpinttymän tuloksena palasin pian kuitenkin takaisin Guayaquiliin ystävieni pariin, jossa minut otettiinkin uudelleen vastaan, ja kokkasin heille omaa pravuuriani eli makaronilaatikkoa. Pääsin myös laulamaan ensimmäistä kertaa espanjaksi karaokebaarissa. Kiitos ja näkemiin Guayaquil, lähdin takaisin Quitoon, sillä siellä odotti jotain suurta ja mahtavaa.

Guayaquilissa pulujen sijaan iguaanit kerjäävät ruokaa puistossa. Niitä on satoja.

Guayaquil - Ecuadorin suurin kaupunki, 3 miljoonaa asukasta.

Fiestas de Quito. Quito perustettiin samana päivänä kuin Suomi itsenäistyi, 6.12, tosin noin 400 vuotta aikaisemmin. Tätä juhlaahan sitten riitti viikon verran. Oli salsakonserttia, katukulkueita, massiivisia lähiöjuhlia, jossa yhdelle kadulle oli raahattu useita massiivisia kaijuttimia, joista pauhasi musiikki aamuun asti, ja sivukujilla oli autoja, joiden takakontista laittoman suuresta kaijuttimesta soi cumbia, bachata, salsa tai mikä nyt soikin, ihmisten tanssien ympäri autoa. Tällaista ei Suomi-tyttö ollut ikinä nähnyt. Viikon Quito- juhlien tunnetuimpia maamerkkejä ovat kuitenkin canelazo ja chivat. Canelazo on naranjilla- hedelmästä, kanelista ja yrteistä tehtyä kuumaa mehua, johon lorautetaan enemmän tai vähemmän sokeriruokolikööriä, jota myydään pienten canelazo- pubien lisäksi kaduilla joka puolella kaupunkia parin dollarin litrahintaan. Chiva, tai tässä tapauksessa ei tietenkään perinteinen chiva vaan chivatec, on rekka, jonka lavalle oli viritetty avonainen koppi, jossa latinotyyliin muhkeat ämyrit sekä pari tankoa ja narua, joista voi pitää kiinni chivan kiitäessä pitkin kaupunkia kyytiläisten tanssien ja lipittäen canelazoa. Chivoilla oli tietyt pysäkit, joista voi nousta kyytiin. Parasta oli tietenkin hyppiminen, tai rinnalle tulevan toisen chivan kanssa kilpaileminen siitä, kumpi chiva heiluu enemmän, tai kumman ämyreistä lähtee enemmän meteliä. Tästä juhlimisesta pitäisi meillä Suomessakin ottaa mallia - ei haittaa vaikka välillä olisikin talousvaikeuksia, kaikki ohjelma Quiton itsenäisyysjuhlien aikaan on ilmaista. Hetkeksi unohdin, miten kylmä Quitossa on. Vaikka Quitosta puuttuu trooppinen salsatunnelma ja suurkaupungin boheemius, ja se on enemmänkin vuoriston perinteisten alkuperäisväestön sekoitus sinne muuttaneisiin opiskelijoihin, on se vuoria pitkin kipuavine taloineen, lukuisine puistoineen ja romanttisine koloniataloineen yksi upeimpia kaupunkeja, joita maailma päällään kantaa. On totuttava siihen, että vaikka äsken paistoi aurinko, kohta voi tulla rakeita, ja siihen, että melkein joka yö pilvet peittävät kaupungin tiheän hernerokkasumun peittoon, jolloin sängyssä kolme peittoa tulee tarpeeseen. Ja ennenkaikkea siihen, että jos kävelet lauantaina kello neljä kaupungin yöelämän keskuksen läpi, et todennäköisesti tule kohtamaan ristin sielua, tai jos kohtaat joitakin ihmisiä, toivot, ettet olisi niitä koskaan niitä kohdannutkaan. Quiton itsenäisyysjuhlien ulkopuolella se ei välttämättä ole mikään yöelämän keskittymä, vaan salsat loppuvat jo kahden aikaan, joka Buenos Airesissa oli normaali aika lähteä baariin.

Ecuadorilaisia ystäviä Quiton juhlien aikaan

Chivan sisällä

Muutamia ihmisiä kadulla juhlimassa

Toinenkin katu täynnä juhlijoita!

Viimeisenä päivänä Quitossa maleksin surun murtamana haikaillen pitkin La Tolaa, joka  varoittelusta huolimatta on mielestäni yksi kaupungin kauneimpia lähiöitä. Ei se voi olla niin vaarallinen, jos minua ei melkein kolmessa kuukaudessa koskaan edes yritetty ryöstää. Viimeistä päivääni viettäessä minut kuitenkin yllätti todella positiivinen yllätys - Buenos Airesissa kanssani asunut paras ystäväni kolumbialainen Mafe soitti ja ilmoitti, että oli tullut Quitoon minua tapaamaan. Tästäkös riemu ratkesi. Laitoimme heti ämyreistä soimaan Los Fabulosos Cadillacsin, jota niin moneen kertaan Chacaritassa tuli kuunneltua, ja pompimme sohvilla. Nautimma La Rondassa muutaman canelazon ja "empanada de morocho":n, joista tämä katu, noin 15 minuutin kävelymatkan päässä kotoani, on niin kuuluisa. Kävimme parissa tunnissa nopeasti läpi kaiken sen, mitä on kerennyt tapahtua viimeisen viiden kuukauden aikana, eli sen jälkeen, kun lähdin Buenos Airesista. Illalla järjestin läksiäiset hostellin sisäpihalla, jossa eräs ystäväni oli töissä. Tarkoitus oli grillata rennosti kaverien kanssa, joita tuli paikalle liki kymmenkunta. Ehkä tilanne jossain vaiheessa hieman lähti käsistä kun istuimme puoli kahdeksalta aamulla johdinbussissa paluumatkalla kotiin kaverini kämpältä jatkojenjatkojenjatkoilta. Ei muuta kuin kamat kasaan ja lähdimme kohti Kolumbiaa.

Kolumbian rajanylitys on melko yksinkertaista. Tulcanin kaupungista taksilla rajalle, perus lippulappusten täytöt ja leimat passiin, rajan yli kävely, lisää lippulappusia ja leimoja ja taksi Ipialekseen. En ollut aiemmin lukenut kovin paljoa turvallisuustiedotteita näiltä alueilta, mutta siinä vaiheessa, kun näkyi paljon sotaväkeä ja poliiseja joka puolella aseistettuna, aloin hieman purra huulta. Kolumbian matkustustiedotteessa lukee: "Vältä matkoja maaseudulle ja raja-alueelle. Maassa aseellinen konflikti, maasta osa sissiryhmien hallinnassa.". Minulta lähtisi kahden päivän päästä lentokone Medellinistä Floridaan, ja sinne Medelliniin on tästä yli vuorokausi bussilla. Juurikin niitä alueita pitkin, jotka ovat sissiryhmien hallinnassa. Huolet kuitenkin pois, sanoi Mafe. Kyllä niitä busseja välillä ryöstetään ja kidnapataan, mutta jos ottaa hyvän bussifirman, se huolehtii turvallisuudesta. Mafen äiti asui Ipialeksessa, joka kuului konfliktialueeseen Ecuadorin rajalla. Täältä sitä kokaiinia tulee ja lähtee maailmalle enemmän kuin mistään muualta maailmasta. Ipiales oli todella ruma kaupunki, aivan kuin paluu Perun karuihin tiilihökkelikaupunkeihin, joten ensivaikutelma Kolumbiasta ei olisi muuten ollut positiivinen, mutta ihmiset vaikuttivat paljon avoimemmilta, puheliaammilta ja ystävällisemmiltä. Taksikuski neuvoi kuin paraskin turistiopas. Nukuin yötä Mafen tädin kotona, aamulla kävimme vierailemassa Las Lajas- kirkolla, ennen kuin lähdin kohti Medelliniä.

Jouluisissa tunnelmissa Mafen ja tämän serkun kanssa

Olen aika monta kilometriä tämän reissuni aikana tehnyt. En edes voi laskea kuinka monta on mennyt bussilla, mutta puhutaan yli 10 000 kilometristä bussissa, ja siihen päälle mitä olen liftannut henkilöauton tai rekan kyydissä. Olen matkustanut melkoisilla reiteillä Boliviassa ja Perussa, aina nauttien bussikyydeistä, mutta silti tämä matka Ipialeksesta Medelliniin oli kaikista kaamein, ehkä myös siksi, että minua pelotti aavistuksen matkustaa yöllä, tietäen, että olen yhdellä Etelä-Amerikan vaarallisimmalla alueella. Bussifirmasta minulle kuitenkin vakuutettiin, että vaaraa ei ole, sillä matkustamme 15 bussin karavaanissa, joissa on mukana aseistetut turvamiehet konfliktien varalta. Matkaa Ipialeksesta Medelliniin on melkein 900 kilometriä. Joku hullu sanoi minulle, että tämä kestää 16-20 tuntia. Ensimmäiset 15 tuntia Caliin oli yhtä painajaista, tie vaikutti todella huonokuntoiselta ja pysähdyimme tuon tuostakin poliisitarkastuksia varten tai pitämään huolta siitä, että karavaani pysyy kasassa. Pimeässä minulla ei ollut käsitystäkään, että nousimme ja laskimme vuorta 3000 metriä. Vatsaani sattui. Calissa jouduin vaihtamaan bussia keskellä yötä, joka tuli vasta parin tunnin odottelun jälkeen. Matka Medelliniin kesti vielä toiset 15 tuntia ja olimme tunteja jumissa liikenneruuhkassa. Medellin on suuri miljoonakaupunki, mutta koska se on vuorten keskellä laaksossa ja sinne mentäessä on ylitettävä vuori, ainoa tie on yksikaistainen kapea vuoristotie, joka on täynnä rekka- ja bussiliikennettä. Lopulta en edes halunnut tietää, montako tuntia matka oli kestänyt, kun saavuin Medelliniin. Matkan loppupuolta lohdutti häkellyttävät trooppiset vuoristomaisemat, ja lopulta itse Medellinin kaupunki, joka on kuin hiomaton timantti vuorten lomassa. Matkauupumuksesta huolimatta vannoin itselleni - tänne vielä palaan.

Taukopaikan vessasta avautui tällaiset näkymät

 Medellinissä minut otti vastaan Andrea, jossa muistelin vuoden aikana tapahtuneita asioita. En oikeastaan osannut käsittää, että olin matkalla kotiin. Olin niin tottunut siihen, että aina tulee uusia kaupunkeja, uusia vuoria ja uusia maita. En oikeastaan ajatellut, että palaan sinne, mistä lähdin. Matkustaminen ei ollut minulle enää "matka" tai "loma", se oli enemmänkin osa elämää. Se ei ollut enää jotain, jota odotetaan kauan aikaa, vaan joka tapahtuu jatkuvasti ja jota tulee tapahtumaan. Pelkästään elämä Buenos Airesissa tai Quitossa oli joka päivä jännittävää ja täynnä uusia kokemuksia, elin ikää kuin jatkuvasti perhosia vatsassa. Voi olla vaikeaa jättää se taakse ja palata normaaliin arkirutiiniin. Mutta silloin oikeastaan ajattlein - ei elämä Buenos Airesissa ole siellä syntyneille mitenkään jännittävää tai ihmeellistä. Miksei jokapäiväinen elämä Vimpelissä tai Hervannassakin voisi olla erilaista aloittamalla jatkuvasti uusia projekteja, tekemällä uusia asioita ja näkemällä asioita uusin silmin?

 

Viimeinen iltani Etelä-Amerikassa

Lähdin Kolumbiasta haikeana mutta hyvillä mielin tietäen, että Etelä-Amerikka oli opettanut minulle jotain tärkeää ja tehnyt minusta sen, mitä haluan olla. Tai ainakin lähemmäksi sitä. Opettanut, ettei kannata tehdä asioista liian vaikeita tai stressata, kyllä kaikki järjestyy omalla painollaan, kun sille vain antaa mahdollisuuden. Toisaalta opin jättämään pois ulkopuolisten paineen siitä, mikä olen ja mitä minun pitäisi olla, ja olen vapaammin sitä, mitä haluan olla. Hyppääminen omasta boksistaan täysin eri maailmaan, ystävystyen sellaisten kanssa, jotka ovat täysin eri lähtokohdista ja eläneet täysin eri polkua, kannatti. Ymmärtää, mitkä asiat tässä maailmassa oikeasti merkitsevät ja sen, miten vähällä pärjää. Nyt viisaantuneempana lähdin Puolaan kahdeksi viikoksi kolmen kilon pikkurepulla, joka ei missään nimessä ole liikaa, kunhan niitä pesee välillä. Miten paljon helpompaa elämä on ilman materiaalia, vuosi kymmenellä kilolla (poislukien leiriytymis- ja vaelluskamat) ei tuottanut mitään vaikeuksia. Kaikenkaikkiaan Etelä-Amerikka jätti ikuiset jäljet, ja olenkin varma että noin kahden vuoden päästä yliopiston jälkeen lähden sinne takaisin, sillä ilman unelmointia paluusta tunnen, ettei millään ole merkitystä.

Ennen kotiinpaluuta vietin kolme päivää materialismin valtakunnassa eli Yhdysvalloissa setäni luona, kunnes matkustin noin 35 tuntia Vimpeliin joulunviettoon.

Kunnes olen viikko sitten tullut tänne Puolaan, mutta sillä taas ei ole enää mitään merkitystä, se on vain osa elämää.